Monte Conero Regional Park, Portonovo Bay: here, perched above the sea, the high cliffs that define the coastline create a spectacle of rare beauty. Right at the foot of the mountain, the unmistakable Adriatic Sea—shifting from turquoise to deep cobalt blue—bathes beaches of white pebbles and gravel, framing a breathtaking scene. It is within this setting that Il Clandestino by Moreno Cedroni rises: a stilted structure nestled in the bay, bearing the colors of the sky and the sea.

White rocks, turquoise waters, lavender and broom on the surrounding hills—this is the jewel of the Conero Park, an unspoiled oasis rich in Mediterranean scrub, its captivating scents embracing every guest.

It was July 10, 2000, when Il Clandestino welcomed its very first guests. “Clandestino,” like the song by Manu Chao that echoed everywhere at the dawn of the new millennium. It was precisely the huge success of that song that inspired Maurizio Fiorini and patron Moreno Cedroni to name the seaside kiosk—just steps from the blue Adriatic—Il Clandestino.

Il Clandestino has much to tell the visitors of the Adriatic coast: a story of ever-evolving flavors and aromas, unfolding in perfect harmony. It’s a story still being written, enriched every year by a new chapter: the Chef, in fact, surprises his guests annually with a themed menu, which over time has woven together history and literature, the imaginary myths of fairy tales with real-life figures from the 1950s, along with tradition, passion, scent, and color.

The restaurant also holds within it a tale of friendship—and perhaps the beginning of a major culinary adventure—summed up in the “reinvention” of a now-famous dish: sushi, which here became susci. At first glance, it may seem like a simple play on words, but in reality, it reveals creativity and professionalism.